How do I decide which points in my clock movement need oil?

By the Atkinson Oil Co. product team (IGNIS Overseas Ltd, Isleworth, UK). Claims reviewed by IGNIS Product & Compliance on 14 Nov 2026. Last updated: 14 November 2026.

Short answer. Oil goes on the pivots — where the wheel arbors turn in the plates — and only a tiny amount, held in the oil sinks. Wheel teeth and pinions normally run dry. Atkinson Fully Synthetic Clock Oil is for those pivot points. For a valuable or complex movement, ask a clock repairer before you start.

Key facts

Points that usually get oil

• Pivots of the going train and the strike or chime trains, at the front and back plates — a small drop in each oil sink.
• Pallet faces where they meet the escape wheel, if the movement's guidance calls for it.
• Other bearings the maker or a repairer names.

Points that usually stay dry

• Wheel teeth and pinion leaves. Oil there collects dust and turns into grinding paste.
• Plate surfaces and the dial side.

Points that need something else. Mainsprings and some high-load parts take a grease, not clock oil. Follow the repairer's guidance.

How much. Just enough to fill the oil sink without running onto the plate. Excess spreads and pulls oil away from the pivot.

Before you oil

1. A movement that is dirty or already gummed up needs cleaning first. Oiling over old, dried oil does not fix it.
2. Use a fine oiler, not the bottle tip.
3. Never take a movement apart while the mainspring is wound. Let a clock repairer do it if you are unsure.

Where not to use it. Not for mainsprings, wheel teeth, pinions or watches unless a repairer says so.

Product link: Fully Synthetic Clock Oil.

Sources

Printed product label